Support the rod near the top with an open palm so that the section of rod blank is resting at a 30-degree angle.
Step 1. Determining the Spine
The first and most important step in building a rod after selecting the proper blank is locating the spine. Think of it as if it were your back bone. You only want to bend in one direction, forward, well so does a rod blank. Every rod blank has a back bone (aka Spine); some are just more defined than others. On multi-piece rods, it's important to locate the spine on all pieces. Start by placing a piece of masking tape around the middle of the rod blank. This is where you will be marking which side of the blank the spine is on. Support the rod near the top with an open palm so that the section of the rod blank is resting at a 30-degree angle. Using your other hand, apply downward pressure to the rod blank as you roll the blank along a smooth surface. You will notice that the blank pops into a pronounced curve and is difficult to role the blank out of that curve. You have just found the spine of the blank. Now mark the outside of that curve on the tape with a pen. That's the spine. Of course, it is a good idea to repeat the process to insure you've hit your mark. The rod always wants to bend in that direction and has the most lifting power. This is how the rod should be built. If you are building a spinning rod, your guides will be located on the inside of the curve 180° to the spine and a casting rod on the outside of the curve on the spine. If you are building a multi-piece rod, you need to repeat this process for all sections.
Begin by reaming the inside diameter of the rear cork grip to fit the blank.
Step 2. Building the Handle
Cork Installation
This is the portion of the rod that you can customize the most. Begin by reaming the inside diameter of the rear cork grip to fit the blank. The best way to accomplish this is with a razor wand or Extreme Reamer. Be careful not to ream out too much. Ideally, the cork should fit snuggly over the blank. Once you achieve a snug inside diameter, apply epoxy glue to the rod blank and slide the grip down the blank and into position you need to leave a half inch of blank exposed to install the butt cap.
Slide the grip down over the glue and push the grip down into position.
EVA Foam Installation
-
Slide the grip down the blank to the binding point, where the grip first meets resistance and must stretch to proceed further down. Mark the blank about 8" - 10" above were the grip began to bind. This is where you will apply epoxy glue.
-
Mix up the epoxy glue and apply the glue from the mark you made all the way to the butt of the blank. The glue will also act as a lubricant.
-
Slide the grip down over the glue and push the grip down into position. Best to stand the blank on the floor and stand over the blank and push down. This requires some effort. Push the grip down until there is only 1/2" of blank still exposed. The butt cap will mount there. Clean up excess glue off of the blank. 91% Rubbing alcohol works best.
Butt Cap Installation
Most likely, the butt cap you will be using will have a larger ID than the blank has OD. If this is the case, use the masking tape and wrap the tape around the blank building an arbor. Make the arbor large enough for the butt cap to slide over it with little pressure. Using the same glue, apply to the inside of the butt cap. Slide the butt cap over your arbor, rotating the butt cap 360° to insure a good bond.
Step 3. Mounting the Reel Seat
Reel seats always have larger ID's than the blank they will be installed on. To get the reel seat to fit the blank, you will build arbors. The arbor serves one purpose and that is to center the reel seat over the blank while the glue sets up. Arbors can be made using masking tape, dry wall mesh tape or by purchasing pre made graphite arbors. For these instructions we will be using masking tape. Begin by wrapping the masking tape around the blank. Start about 1/2" away from the rear grip. Wrap the tape until the reel seat slides over the arbor snug. Install another arbor about 1/2" back from the front of the reel seat. Then finally install a third in the middle.
Begin by wrapping the masking tape around the blank. Start about 1/2" away from the rear grip.
Now, using the same glue apply the glue over the arbors, making sure to encapsulate the tape arbors. Then apply glue between the arbors. Remember the tape is only there to center the reel seat while the glue sets up. We want to make sure the glue adheres to the blank and the reel seat. Now slide the reel seat over the arbors and at the same time turn the reel seat 360°. This will help make sure the glue makes full contact with your blank. Make sure to line up your reel seat hoods with the spine mark you made earlier.
Now, using the same glue apply the glue over the arbors, making sure to encapsulate the tape arbors.
Step 4. Foregrip & Winding Check Installation
Foregrip Installation
Repeat Step 2 for installation of Foregrip.
Winding Check
Apply a small amount of glue just in front of your fore grip, now slide your winding check down over the blank flush against your blank. The Winding Check is a small ring of rubber, metal, or plastic that goes on the front end of the foregrip. It hides rough edges from the fitting process and adds a finished appearence.
Step 5. Tip-Top Installation
Cut a small piece of tip-top adhesive and slide it into the tube of the tip-top. Now holding the tip-top with a pair of pliers use a lighter and heat the entire tip-top, this will melt the glue on the inside. Slide the tip-top over the blank and at the same time turn the tip-top 360° to make sure you have good adhesion.
Step 6. Guide Preparation
We need to file down the feet of the guides so our thread smoothly transitions from the blank to the guide. Use a small file and work the end of the guide foot so that it comes to a point. Afterwards, take a piece of light sand paper and buff the underside of the guide feet. This helps remove bits or burrs in the metal that could scratch the blank and cause catastrophic rod failure.
Use a small file and work the end of the guide foot so that it comes to a point.
Step 7. Guide Wrapping Step-by-Step
Place the first guide in the proper position on the rod blank. Remember if you're building a spinning rod, the guides will be mounted on the blank 180° from the spine, a casting rod the guides will be mounted in line with the spine. Manufactures typically supply guide placement for particular blanks. You can also refer to page 14 in this catalog for a guide placement chart. Tape the forward foot of the first guide in place. If a single foot guide, wrap a small piece of tape about center of the foot of the guide leaving exposed the front portion of the foot to wrap thread onto. Advanced rod builders often thread a base color which the guide sits on called an under wrap.
Rotate the rod while simultaneously crossing the running thread over the tag end.
(1.) Starting 1/4" (this distance is personal preference) from the guide, begin wrapping. You'll be wrapping from left to right. To get started, wrap once around the blank. Be very careful here and place your finger on the blank where the two threads meet and slowly rotate the rod while simultaneously crossing the running thread over the tag end. In essence, you are cross-stitching an X pattern which locks the thread in place.
Stop and trim the remaining length of the tag end off.
(2.) After approximately eight wraps, stop and trim the remaining length of the tag end off as close to the wraps as possible. Continue wrapping while constantly monitoring that each wrap is tightly seated next to the previous wrap.
Transitioning from rod blank to guide foot.
(3.) Be careful when making the transition from rod blank to guide foot. This is where it is easy to make the mistake of allowing the threads to sit on top of each other rather than next to each other.
Slide the loop under the running thread, making sure it's tight to your wrap.
(4.) When you get about 1/8" from the end, take a small piece of thread and fold it over into a simple loop. Slide the loop under the running thread (the loop goes in the same direction you are wrapping), making sure it's tight to your wrap. Complete your wrap over the loop, about eight to ten times.
Cut running thread and slip through the loop.
(5.) With one finger on the top of the wrap, use your other hand to cut the running thread from the spool. Grab the tag end you just created and slip it through the loop.
Pull the loop back through the wrap.
(6.) Gently pull the loop back through the wraps until both the loop and the tag end of your thread come through.
Cut the tag end flush to your wrap.
(7.) Take a razor blade and lay it flat on your wraps right next to where the tag end comes out from under your wraps. Take the tag end and pull towards the razor blade, cutting the tag end flush to your wraps. Do not use your razor blade as a saw; this could possible damage your wraps. Repeat the process for both feet of each guide, making sure that each guide is aligned and spaced properly.
Step 8. Aligning Guides
The best way to align the guides is with your eye. Sight down the rod and adjust the guides left or right to line up with your reel seat and tip top.
Step 9. Applying Finish
Now that all of the guides have been wrapped and are in place, it is time to epoxy. Make sure to thoroughly mix the epoxy according to the manufacture's exact specifications. Most blends are 50/50 and if you are not extremely accurate, the epoxy will never dry. With your rod in a rod drier turning about 6 to 15 times per minute, use a disposable brush and lightly apply epoxy to the threads. Ideally, the epoxy should run no more than one quarter inch past each wrap and onto the blank. This is to prevent moisture from seeping under the wraps and rusting the guide feet. Once you have applied epoxy to all of the wraps, use the heat from an alcohol burner and run it under the wraps to eliminate any bubbles. Do not apply flame directly to the finish as too much heat at one time can have detrimental effects like loosening the epoxy and causing it to sag.
